View Missouri’s Best Swimming Spot from the Johnson’s Shut-Ins Trail

The scenic and popular Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park is well known as a great spot to cool off on sticky summer day. This park in southeast Missouri features a section of dramatic rock gorges and chutes carved out by the Black River. Visitors climb over and along the rocks looking for the perfect natural water slides and swimming holes.

Park History

Three generations of the Johnson family once farmed this area. in the 1800s. By 1900, most of the area residents had moved away. The land was purchased by St. Louis resident Joseph Deslodge and donated to the state park system in 1955.

This park was forever changed on December 14, 2205 when the Upper Taum Sauk Reservoir failed, sending 1.3 billion gallons of water rushing down the side of the Proffit Mountain. This wall of water followed the path of the Black River leaving a path of destruction filled with rocks, boulders, and sediment.

Fortunately, the failure happened in winter when the park was empty. It did sweep through the home of the park’s superintendent and his family, but they survived with minor injuries.

Ameren was required to pay a large fine for the failure. The reservoir and dam were completely rebuilt with updated technology and safety features. The heavily damaged campground and park facilities were rebuilt with the campground being relocated. The shut-ins remained undamaged and as beautiful as ever.

Tips for Visiting the Shut-ins Area

The shut-ins are located in a day use area. This area can be very busy in the summer months and the entrance booth will limit visitors when the parking lot fills. If visiting on a summer weekend, try to arrive soon after the park opens at 8 a.m. or later on in the afternoon and evening.

Safety
While this area is beautiful and fun, it can also be dangerous. The wet rocks are super slick and the current can be strong and fast. With kids, I suggest staying upstream of main shut-ins where the water is calmer and shallow. There are a few access areas plus a shallow area just upstream of the main, taller waterfalls. Life jackets are recommended for young kids.

The water level is monitored and flags display green, yellow, or red depending on the hazard level. I would not take kids in the water at anything other than a green flag level. The shut-ins access gates close at a red level. The park website posts the up to date river status level.

Amenities
At the parking lot where the shut-ins trail starts, there is a seasonal general store and restrooms. There is also a vault toilet along the paved path to the shut-ins, but no restrooms at the actual shut-ins area.

Items Not Allowed
Starting at the shut-ins trailhead and anywhere within the shut-ins recreation area, the following items are not allowed: Drinks in disposable containers (water bottles, cans, glass, etc.), food, alcohol, coolers, and pets. Please obey the rules to keep the area clean and safe. Also obey all rules about not jumping off the upper bluffs.

Alternate water access points
If you happen to visit and the main shut-ins area is full, there are still other river access areas in the park. Located north of the shut-ins you can find picnic areas and spots to access the river. The water is usually shallow and calmer here.

While the day use area of the shut-ins can be bustling with summer swimmers, few people take the time to explore the several hiking trails that can be found here. The Johnson’s Shut-ins Hiking Trail is perhaps the most scenic as it travels by the shut-ins themselves as well as passing scenic overlooks and trickling waterfalls. This trail is worth a visit any time of year.

The shut-ins day use area is open:
March 1 through the Wed. before Memorial Day: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m., daily
Thursday before Memorial Day through Labor Day: 8 a.m. – 8 p.m., daily
Day after Labor Day through Oct. 31: 8 a.m. – 6 p.m., daily
November through February: 8 a.m. – 4 p.m., daily

Park Visitor Center and Playground

The Black River Center is a great way to start your visit. Open seasonally, the center has several interactive exhibits, movies about the park, maps, and visitor information.

Year-round flush restrooms are also located here just to the right of the Visitor Center entrance.

The playground is located in the north day use area, not far from the park entrance. It is small, but has a nature and rock theme to match the park.

Hiking Trails

Johnson’s Shut-ins has several different trails. The 3 mile Black River Trail System is a mostly paved path between the campground and the shut-ins trailhead for walking or bicycling. The 1.4 mile Scour Trail takes visitors to view the path and geology left behind when the flood water rushed down the mountain. The 1.5 mile Horseshoe Glade Trail takes visitors into a more wild and wooded area with views across the St. Francois Mountains. Equestrian users will enjoy the 10 mile Goggins Mountain Trail that is open for both hikers and horseback riders. Long distance hikers will find a section of the Ozark Trail passing through the park.

The most popular hiking trail at the park is the 2.3 mile Shut-ins Trail. The trail is paved for the first 0.3 mile before climbing above the shut-ins through woodlands and glades. This is my favorite trail at the park, read on for a full trail guide!

Johnson’s Shut-ins Trail

• Length: 2.3 miles. There is a white connector trail to shorten the hike.
• Difficulty: 4/5. Moderate inclines up and down. Very rocky and rugged in some area. Can be muddy and wet.
• Scenic Value: 5/5. Beautiful year round.

Reaching the Trailhead

The Johnson’s Shut-ins trail head is located next to the store at the very end of the park road in the day use area. The path is marked with blue markers. The trail starts as a paved path that leads to the shut-ins overlook. This 0.3 mile paved path and boardwalk allows ADA accessibility or those with strollers to get a look at the geological wonder and beauty of the shut-ins.

Hiking the Shut-ins Trail Loop

The trail can be hiked either direction as it makes a loop. If you are hiking when it’s warm out, you may want to hike counter-clockwise and head right uphill off the paved path where it crosses a little stream to start. This will allow you to end at the shut-ins to cool off.

We like to see the shut-ins first so we follow the boardwalk to the end to start the trail from there.

The boardwalk is also the access point for those who want to climb down for a closer look or to splash in the crystal clear and cool water.

On this visit, the access gate was closed due to high water levels. There are flags for three water levels: green, yellow, or red. The gates close off access at a red level.

Starting to Climb Above the Shut-ins

After passing the shut-ins the trail climbs up and then down a set of stairs before leading to an overlook of a turquoise blue pool below.

From here the trail becomes much more rugged. The path follows a rocky trail along the top of the bluffs. Use caution with children here.

It may be hard to see the right trail at times. Just keep an eye out for blue arrows and blazes on the trees.

The trail then begins to switchback down the hill towards the river level. The path is less rugged, but narrow. At some point there is a white connector trail to shorten the hike if desired, but we never actually saw it.

Once you reach river level, there are plenty of spots to take a nice break and enjoy the view.

The trail can have some encroaching plants and brush near the river, but widens once it veers away into the trees.

River Overlook and Access

Another overlook and river access point come into view further along the trail. This is a beautiful spot for a snack or water break.

The trail becomes more rocky and rough again past this point. It joins up briefly with the Ozark Trail.

The path parallels a pretty little creek before crossing the creek at a cascading wet-weather waterfall.

After crossing the rocky and somewhat slick creek bed, the trail turns left and climbs alongside this scenic cascade to reach a taller and more beautiful waterfall.

Highest Point of the Hike

Just past the waterfall, the trail offers some nice views of the river below. The view reminds you of how far up you have climbed and how far down you will need to go again.

The path continues on through the woods and along what appear to be an old and rocky road. This stretch can be very muddy and is less scenic as it winds back downhill to the paved path.

The shut-ins day use area is open:
March 1 through the Wed. before Memorial Day 8 a.m. – 6 p.m., daily
Thursday before Memorial Day through Labor Day 8 a.m. – 8 p.m., daily
Day after Labor Day through Oct. 31 8 a.m. – 6 p.m., daily
November through February 8 a.m. – 4 p.m., daily

Additional Things to Know:

• A park map can be found HERE
• Pets are not allowed on the shut-ins trail.
• No coolers or disposable drinking containers allowed at the shut-ins area.
• Parking at the shut-ins trail is limited to 100 cars and often fills up early on summer weekends. Arrive early or a weekday. There is a gate and they will give you a free parking tag during peak hours.
• Restrooms are located at the visitor’s center (open year round) and both restrooms and changing rooms are located next to the store at the shut-ins trailhead.
• The Visitor’s Center is open daily 10-5 during summer and weekends in spring and fall.
• The park also features a campground and campers cabins.

Don’t miss the other scenic hikes in the Arcadia Valley area including Elephant Rocks and Taum Sauk Mountain.