Best Hikes in Shawnee National Forest

The Shawnee National Forest in southern Illinois is one of our favorite areas to explore. You forget anything you ever thought about Illinois’s flat landscape when you view the rugged bluffs, trickling creeks, and dramatic overlooks that can be found in Shawnee.

Shawnee has an amazing amount of scenic areas and parks to explore. There are trails available for all ages and abilities from a quarter mile easy trek to a multi-day backpacking adventure. It’s hard to pick our favorite trails, but there are a few areas we return to over and over for their natural beauty and family friendly hikes.

Easy Hikes

Cave-in-Rock State Park

Cave-in-Rock has a long and colorful history of harboring outlaws and river pirates starting in the 1790s. Pictographs also once graced the walls from even older civilizations in the area. Today the site is preserved as part of a beautiful state park.

Numerous hiking trails wind along the water and through the woods. Take the steps down to the water level and follow a short path to the 55′ wide cave’s opening. Another set of steps leads up on top of the bluff for a panoramic view of the river. Be sure to check water levels before visiting as Ohio River flooding will close access to the cave.

Ferne Clyffe State Park

Ferne Clyffe is a true natural oasis. The park features rugged bluffs, lush vegetation, and rushing wet weather waterfalls. This spot was once declared “the most beautiful place in all of Illinois.” A large network of trails are spread over multiple areas of the park making this one of the best hikes in Shawnee National Forest.

The Big Rocky Hollow, Hawk’s Cave, and Rebman Trails are all easy trails that lead from the same parking area. The waterfall at Big Rocky Hollow takes quite a bit of rain to flow well. If you can catch it after a good storm, it is a 100′ tall sight to behold.

Garden of the Gods Recreation Area

Garden of the Gods is the most popular and most photographed recreation area in all of Shawnee Forest. The magnificent rock formations and panoramic views are not to be missed. A short 0.25-mile Observation Trail gives visitors an up-close view of the rugged rocks and leads to dramatic overlooks. Other longer trails in the area give an escape from some of the crowds and more amazing views. The Indian Point Trail is a moderate hike with more peaceful views and rugged bluffs.

Use caution with kids here though as there are no guardrails and many steep drop offs. Try to visit early or on a weekday as the parking lot fills up early on weekends.

Giant City State Park

Giant City is one of the best state parks in the state. The stunning rock formations, large variety of trails, and recreation opportunities make this a perfect spot to explore the outdoors. There are trails that range from less than a mile to a rugged 12 mile trek.

The majority of the trails are easy to moderate. Especially popular is the Giant City Nature Trail, home of the “Giant City Streets” – huge bluffs of sandstone that tower over the trail. Other easy trails include the Post Oak Trail, Devil’s Stand Table, Indian Creek, and Stone Fort Trails. Recharge from your hike with some delicious fried chicken in the rustic lodge built in the 1930s.

Cache River Natural Area

You can feel like you have headed to a southern bayou at Cache River Natural Area. This rare remaining example of a cypress swamp is a wonderful and easy place to explore. You can find several short and easy trails behind the Cache Rivers Wetlands Visitor Center. The Heron Pond Trail is the most popular trail in the area. A 1.5 mile trail passes over a scenic floating boardwalk and connects to an additional trail leading to the state champion Cherrybark Oak Tree.

Millstone Bluff

Millstone Bluff is a unique historic site in Shawnee Forest. This archaeological site preserves the remains of a prehistoric village. A mostly easy 0.9 mile trail makes a steady uphill climb on a wide path to the top of the bluff. On the top of the bluff, you can follow a wooden boardwalk to view ancient petroglyphs and follow interpretive signs past the village ruins.

Illinois Iron Furnace

While not really a hike, one of the most unusual spots to be found in far south Illinois is the only remaining iron furnace structure in the state. Originally built in 1837, the 32′ structure was built with limestone blocks and is now listed on the National Historic Register. A village and post office were once located here.

The furnace was abandoned in 1887 and reconstructed in 1967 by the US Forest Service. Today the site is preserved as a picnic area with a picnic shelter, restrooms, and a small trail behind the shelter.

Pomona Natural Bridge

One of the shortest trails to hike in Shawnee, the Pomona Bridge trail makes up in might what it lacks in length. This is a fun trail for all ages. The path makes a mild descent to a 90-foot long natural bridge. You can walk both below and across the bridge to make a 1/2 mile loop. Use caution with kids on the bridge, but it is wide enough to walk across safely.

Tunnel Hill State Trail

The Tunnel Hill State Trail is a 45 mile rails to trails path that cuts through portions of the Shawnee National Forest. This scenic trail passes ghost towns, quaint towns, and crosses dozens of bridges.

If you are not a bicyclist, multiple spots are available to park and walk a portion of the trail. One of the most interesting segments is at the Tunnel Hill parking area. Here you can take a short and flat walk to an old railroad tunnel. Continue a couple more miles down the trail and you can cross an impressive bridge trestle.

Moderate Hikes

Bell Smith Springs Recreation Area

I first saw an image of Bell Smith Springs tucked away in an issue of Midwest Living’s annual travel guide. That photo showed a glistening emerald pool with jagged rocks reaching towards the deep blue sky. When we first visited, I discovered this scenic jewel is even better in person.

A variety of trails wander through this scenic area. You can view a scenic overlook before stepping down a set of CCC era stone stairs and following the bluffs to the Devil’s Backbone rock formation. Other trails lead to a natural rock bridge or past an old mill site. The scenic springs and streams in the area add to the beauty of this off-the-beaten path gem.

Jackson Falls

Jackson Falls is located not far from Bell Smith down more gravel back roads. This is a trail popular with hiking, rock climbing, and rapelling. Like other waterfalls in southern Illinois, this one requires wet conditions in order to be running. While the top of the waterfall can be reached in about a 0.25 mile walk, it takes a bit more effort and time to reach the bottom of the falls safely.

This is a moderate hike that borders on difficult due to the scrambling required and poor markings along the trail. While doable with kids (ours did the hike at 3 & 5 years old), caution must be used as a portion runs along the edge of a bluff and some rock scrambling is required to get to the bottom of the canyon.

Burden Falls

Burden Falls is a must do stop when exploring Shawnee National Forest. This beautiful place offers multiple waterfalls for viewing. While you can see the upper falls easily from the parking area, the taller falls are best seen on a one mile each way out and back hike. Like other waterfalls in the area, Burden Falls only flows during wet weather times of the year.

Rim Rock National Recreation Trail

Rim Rock National Recreation Trail is a scenic trail that leads around the rim of a rock escarpment. There are two options from the parking lot, the upper trail and the lower trail.

The upper trail is paved and easy. The trail passes remnants of a prehistoric stone wall, a CCC plantation and an observation platform. You used to be able to climb down a set of wooden stairs between towering rock slabs to the lower, unpaved trail. However, the stairs were damaged and removed. To access the lower trail, take the path to the right from the parking area and it will lead around the bluff to a shelter cave and stunning narrow rock passages. This trail leads also has a spur trail that continues on to Pounds Hollow Lake.

Rocky Bluff Trail

This beautiful and moderate trail is technically just outside the Shawnee Forest boundary. It is part of the Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge. The Rocky Bluff trail offers two different options, a 2.2 mile loop or a shortcut 0.5 mile loop option. Both travel past wet-weather waterfalls, rocky bluffs, and stunning seasonal wildflowers.

Panthers Den

Panthers Den is an amazing 3 mile loop hike that includes rugged and towering rock formations. Explore this maze of bluffs and boulders along a 3 mile hike that also includes a creek. The trail is moderate and even borderline easy for much of the distance as it follows a wide and well traveled path. It takes a little more scrambling to explore all of the rock passages, but the views are worth the journey.

Stoneface Trail

If you are looking for a unique and lesser known rock formation, check out the Stoneface hike. Located off Stoneface Road in the northeastern portion of Shawnee Forest, the hike to the face is only 0.5 miles each way. The path can be rocky in areas and sometimes overgrown, but it also passes some interesting small caves and overlooks along the way.

Difficult Trails

Little Grand Canyon

While the Little Grand Canyon in Illinois can’t compare to the size or depth of the Grand Canyon out west, this trail is still extremely scenic. This 3.6 mile loop passes an amazing overlook of the Muddy River and Mississippi floodplain before descending into a deep ravine.

The trail can be hiked both directions, but either route requires scrambling down slick and rugged rocks to reach the bottom of the canyon. From the canyon floor, jagged bluffs tower over lush vegetation. Use caution here, but this is a hike well worth the effort.

Things to Know Before You Go

• Always check the website for the most updated information on trail condition and any closures.
• Bug spray is recommended on many of the trails, especially Heron Pond.
• Cell service can be spotty. It’s recommended to download offline maps and trail maps before exploring
• Some of the trails can be crowded on weekends at locations like Garden of the Gods, Rim Rock, and Giant City. Try to arrive early if you can or a weekday. If a parking lot is full, pick a different area to explore.
• The waterfalls in Shawnee are wet weather falls and many require a good rain to flow at all. Even when they aren’t flowing, the trails and views are beautiful!
• Pack out what you bring in and remember to leave no trace. Leave the natural beauty of the area just as you found it.

Maps can be found on the National Forest Service site HERE.

Best Time of Year to Visit Shawnee National Forest

Shawnee National Forest is beautiful in any season. Spring brings more rain which means the waterfalls are more likely to be flowing. Summer can be hot, humid, and buggy, but there are some shorter hikes and plenty of shade along the trails. Fall is probably my favorite time as the fall color is stunning. Winter can also be a great time to explore with quiet trails and frozen waterfalls. Just use extra caution as trails can be icy.

How Many Days Do You Need in Shawnee National Forest?

While you can easily visit one or two spots on a day trip, I recommend spending at least 2-3 days exploring Shawnee National Forest. The forest covers a huge area of Southern Illinois, and many of the best hikes and attractions are spread out.

For a longer weekend, I recommend dividing your trip into the western, central, and eastern sections of the forest. This cuts down on driving and gives you more time to actually enjoy the trails.

If you are planning a Shawnee National Forest fall road trip, this three-day itinerary covers many of the best hikes, overlooks, waterfalls, and scenic stops without spending your entire trip in the car.

3-Day Shawnee National Forest Itinerary

Day 1: Western Shawnee National Forest

• Pomona Natural Bridge
• Optional stop at Bald Knob Cross or Rendleman Orchards for the farm market, flower fields, and seasonal fall fun
• Giant City State Park OR Little Grand Canyon OR Panther Den
• If visiting Giant City State Park with kids, don’t miss a stop at Boo Memorial Castle Park nearby
• Dinner at Giant City Lodge

Day 2: Central Shawnee National Forest

• Ferne Clyffe State Park OR Cache River State Natural Area and Heron Pond OR Rocky Bluff Trail
• Tunnel Hill State Trail
• Bell Smith Springs
• Lunch or dinner at Shotgun Eddy’s

Day 3: Eastern Shawnee National Forest

• Garden of the Gods
• Rim Rock National Recreation Trail
• Cave-in-Rock State Park
• Optional lunch or dinner at Cave-In-Rock State Park Restaurant or E’Town River Restaurant

If you only have two days, I recommend concentrating on the areas that include the hikes you most want to see rather than trying to cover the entire forest. Keep in mind that hiking times, driving between trailheads, and simply stopping to enjoy the scenery can quickly fill a day.

Where to Stay in Shawnee National Forest

There are tons of cabins, campgrounds, glamping spots, and unique places to stay throughout Southern Illinois. Since Shawnee National Forest is so spread out, check the location of your lodging compared to the areas you plan to explore.

Some of our favorite places to stay include:

• The Cabins at Sunrise Hill – Makanda: These cozy A-frame cabins make a great base for exploring Giant City and the western side of Shawnee. Each cabin has its own private hot tub.
• Songbird Lane Cabin – Goreville: This peaceful cabin surrounded by trees makes a great home base for exploring the central portion of Shawnee. It has a private hot tub, fireplace, and plenty of room for a family.
• Shawnee Hills Glamping – Simpson: Stay in a unique glamping dome surrounded by the forest. You get the fun of camping with comforts like climate control, a full bathroom, kitchen area, and private hot tub.
• The Shady Roost – This peaceful cabin tucked in the trees offer modern luxury and unique touches like a fireplace, full kitchen, hot tub, fire pit, and a cozy loft just minutes from Cave-in-Rock State park.
• Giant City State Park Cabins – Makanda: Stay right inside Giant City State Park in one of the historic lodge’s cabins. This is an especially convenient option if you plan to spend time exploring Giant City and the western portion of the forest.
• Camping: Tent and RV camping can be found throughout the area, including campgrounds within Shawnee National Forest and several of the surrounding Illinois state parks. Camping can be an inexpensive way to stay close to the trails and enjoy even more time outdoors.

You can find more details and links to places we have personally stayed on our Favorite Family Lodging Spots page.

Where to Eat in Shawnee National Forest

Restaurants can be spread out just like the hiking trails, so it’s a good idea to plan meals around the part of the forest you are exploring. Hours can also be limited or seasonal in some of the smaller towns, so always double-check current hours before making the drive.

A few of our favorite places to eat and grab a treat include:

• Giant City Lodge – Makanda: You can’t go wrong with a meal inside this beautiful historic lodge. They are especially known for their family-style fried chicken, and it’s a perfect stop after hiking at Giant City.
• Shotgun Eddy’s – Eddyville: A casual local bar and grill that’s a convenient lunch or dinner stop when exploring Bell Smith Springs and the central portion of Shawnee National Forest.
• The Red Onion – Equality: A longtime Southern Illinois favorite serving steaks, pork chops, fried chicken, sandwiches, and other homestyle favorites.
• Cave-In-Rock State Park Restaurant – Cave-in-Rock: Located inside Cave-in-Rock State Park overlooking the Ohio River. It’s an easy place to grab a meal while exploring the eastern side of Shawnee.
• E’Town River Restaurant – Elizabethtown: This seasonal floating restaurant sits right on the Ohio River and is known for its catfish. The riverfront setting makes the meal part of the experience.
• Riverside Mercantile – Elizabethtown: Stop for hand-dipped ice cream, coffee, local goods, and gifts near the Ohio River.
• The Chocolate Factory – Golconda: Located directly across from Dixon Springs State Park, this is a fun stop for handmade chocolates, fudge, and other sweet treats.
• Whiffle Boy’s Pizza – Goreville: A casual, locally owned pizza spot that’s convenient if you’re exploring Ferne Clyffe State Park or staying around Goreville.

Have you ever visited this area of Illinois? If so, what’s your favorite spot?